The story in our family is that Mom would make the requested strawberry shortcake for a birthday, but since it had to be kept refrigerated until after dinner, when we saw it there after school she would pretend that we were dreaming and say, “Cake? What cake? There’s no cake there,” so that we could all enjoy the “surprise” later. Mom is gone now, but What-cake lives on. Here’s the one, almost exactly like she used to make, from my recent birthday.

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